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The Soaring Eagle of the Sierras
© 2005 Ron Watters
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“His appearance was graceful, swaying his balance pole to one side and the other in the manner that soaring eagle dips its wings.”
__________
It is early winter, 1855.
In Placerville on the west
slope of California's Sierras, the
prospects for any kind of reliable mail service over the mountains are bleak.
The prospects are even bleaker for the settlers living on
the east slope of the Sierras in Carson
Valley (south of present day Carson
City, Nevada). At least, Placerville
can get news from Sacramento, only
50 miles to the west, and San Francisco
beyond that. Carson
Valley, however, is without any
means of communication over the Sierras and is virtually cut-off from the
world. The residents of Carson
Valley might as well be living on an
island in the middle of the ocean.
It is all because of the Sierras' snow. It grows to extraordinary depths, far beyond
the experience and imagination of anyone who had come to California
since gold was discovered in 1848. Cabins--parts
of towns even--drift over and disappear under the great layers of snow. The snow builds to such depths that not even
stove pipes are left.
The smart ones have boarded up their cabins, braced ceiling
rafters, and have gotten out before winter.
They knew that snow would bring travel to a virtual standstill. Those who wait too long to get out will end
up wallowing in snow, and if they manage to make it back to the valley alive--and
with all their toes and fingers intact--they'll have plenty of harrowing tales
of survival to tell.
About the only ones who travel in the Sierras on purpose in
the winter are the mail contractors. That's
their job. In the summer, it's challenging
work, but, in the winter, it's downright backbreaking. To get through, they've attempted different
routes through the mountains and experimented with various traveling methods. One mail contractor even resorted to using wooden
mauls, beating and packing the snow, so his pack animals would have something
firm to walk on. This they did mile after
mile. When they got to Carson
Valley they were spent. More recent attempts had been made on webs or
Canadian snowshoes, with the mail carried on men's backs. But even those were not reliable. Just that December, a man by the name of
Bishop took 8 days to get across the Sierras and was "badly frozen"
in the process.
That's the way things stood in 1855. Mail service over the Sierras in the winter
was simply uncertain. Things, indeed,
looked bleak.
Then, a strapping young Norwegian immigrant appeared on the
scene.
Within a short time, this young, blond Norseman would be celebrated
throughout the Sierras -- and become one of the most famous cross-country
skiers of all time. His reputation and
legend would grow by leaps, and, in time, the facts and fiction of his life would
become so intermixed that it would become difficult, if not impossible, by
modern historians to separate the two.
This much we do know:
his name was John A. Thompson. To
the admiring residents of the Sierras, however, he was known simply as Snowshoe
Thompson.
* * *
John Thompson immigrated with his family from Norway
when he was 10 years old. In 1851, at
the age of 24, Thompson arrived in California.
It was just 3 years after gold had been
discovered, and the mountains were crawling with recent arrivals. Prospectors had spread out all over the
Sierras and more strikes were being made, particularly in a lovely region of
the Sierras to the west of Lake Tahoe. It was here in a swath of mountainous country
between Sacramento and Reno--60
miles to the north and south of present day Interstate 80--that Thompson would
make his mark.
This area of high peaks and preternaturally abundant snow is
sometimes referred to as the Lost Sierra for its long-gone boom towns. But it abounds with much more than mining
history. This is also a place where
skiing history was made. Indeed, it is
hallowed ground, for the Lost Sierra is the cradle of skiing in North
America.
Here skis first made their appearance in great enough numbers
to establish a toe hold in the New World. According to ski historian William Berry, it
began with a few isolated individuals in the early 1850's. While who and when skis were first used
remains murky, it is clear that by the tail end of 1850's, they were beginning
to proliferate throughout the area. And
by the 1860's in the Lost Sierra, they had become de rigueur.
Thompson played an important role in the popularization of
skiing in the Sierras. While he probably
wasn't the first, he was certainly among the earliest skiers and quickly became
the most well known. His deeds and
exploits were so widely reported that, in essence, he became the sport's poster
child. Television producers, had there
been television in those days, would have loved him.
He would have also caught the eyes of the ladies--what few
of them were around. He was, to use a
more contemporary term, something of a hottie.
That, according to Dan DeQuille of the Territorial Enterprise who interviewed Thompson. (DeQuille, incidently, gave a young Samuel
Clemens--Mark Twain--his first newspaper job, and certainly must have had a
talent for sizing up one's character.) John
Thompson, DeQuille wrote, was a "man of splendid physique. His features were large, but regular and
handsome. He had the blond hair and
beard, and fair skin and blue eyes of his Scandinavian ancestors."
The striking, blue-eyed Thompson had dabbled at mining in Placerville
and farming near Sacramento, but,
like many in those days, he was always on the look-out for other employment
opportunities. Too, he had the
constitution and inclinations of his Viking heritage, and a job with an adventurous
slant would undoubtedly pique his interest.
According to some writers, it was an ad in the Sacramento Union in 1855 that led him to the profession which would
open to the door to fame: "People
Lost to the World; Uncle Sam Needs a Mail Carrier"
The mail route referred to in the Union's ad was between Placerville,
50 miles to the east of Sacramento,
to Mormon Station, 25 miles southwest to Carson City,
Nevada.
(Mormon Station located in the Carson River
valley would eventually be renamed Genoa, Nevada.) The total distance of the route: 90 miles, all the way, from one side of the
Sierras to the other.
Thompson got the job.
His first run would be in early January, and for it, he planned to use skis,
a method of winter travel he had learned as a boy in Norway. The term "skis," however, had not
come into usage yet. They were called "Norwegian
Skates" by the Sacramento Union. Two other common names used by newspapers of
that era included "Long Snowshoes" and "Norwegian Snowshoes." What we now know as snowshoes were called "webs,"
"Indian Snowshoes" or "Canadian Snowshoes."
Relying on his boyhood memory, Thompson constructed his first
set of Norwegian skates out of a freshly cut--and very green--oak plank. As you can imagine, they were
monstrosities. According to De Quille, Thompson
weighed them when he got to Placeville and they tipped the scales at 25 pounds.
He eventually got the weight down on
subsequent pairs, but, even so, the skis of the 1800's were still formidable in
size. In a newspaper article some years
later, Thompson described the dimensions of his skis: 9 feet long, 4 inches wide at the tip and
narrowing to 3 1/2 inches. Thickness: 1
1/2 inches.
Since Norwegian skates were still relatively unknown, and
still unproven, there were lots of doubters in Placerville. Bishop's recent ill-fated, 8-day trip across
the Sierras was a case in point. Even Thompson's
friends in Placerville, De Quille
tells us, urged him not to do it. They
were afraid that the unwieldy long boards strapped to his feet would be
unmanageable--and that he would "dash his brains out against a tree" or
fly off a cliff.
Thompson, however, had hedged his bets and had practiced
with his skis in the high country above Placerville
prior to his first trip. By the time his
first trip came around, he was ready and confident enough of his skills. On January
3, 1855, he left the settlement behind and disappeared into the
mountains.
Then there was silence.
A short while later, he was back. Jaws dropped open. Friends shouted hurrahs. He had done it! And far faster than anyone imagined. When he later arrived at Sacramento,
his total return time from Carson Valley
was an amazing three and half days. He had
cut almost five days off Bishop's time and wasn't any worse for the wear. The naysayers were silenced. Snowshoe Thompson, a moniker that he would
pick up over the next few years, had proven that skis were an efficient and
suitable mode of winter transportation in the mountains.
The Sacramento Union
announced that first famous trip:
"Mr. John A. Thompson left Carson
Valley on Tuesday morning and
reached this city at noon yesterday. He was three days and a half in coming
through from Carson Valley and used on the snow the Norwegian skates, which are
manufactured of wood."
The following month, the Union was warming up to this man Thompson, calling him
an "adventurous and hardy mountain expressman." He regularly made the journey twice a month through
the rest of the winter. His reliability,
kindness and physical prowess quickly earned the admiration and respect of the Sierra
residents. The seeds had been planted. The roots firmly established. A legend was about to spring forth from the
Sierra soil.
* * *
His pack, weighing from 60 to 80 pounds, included mail,
newspapers, periodicals, ore samples, and medicines. UPS and FedEx can't claim
any originality when it comes to express service plans. Thompson long beat them to it, instituting
2-day and 3-day service. He could run
the 90-mile Placerville to Carson
Valley leg in 3 days and reverse
journey in 2 days.
Not all of the distance was done on skis. The snow line varied depending on the month
and severity of the winter. Skis,
however, were needed in 1856 and were what got him swiftly across the high,
snowbound portion of the route.
He was back at it the following winter. The Sacramento Union
reported that during the winter of 1856-1857, most of his 31 crossings of the
Sierras were on skis. That second winter
appears to be the high water mark in Thompson's trans-Sierra ski express. In 1858, he was again carrying the mail, but with
improved wagon roads, he was now using horse-drawn sleighs. He continued, however, to use skis when the
roads could not be broken. For the next
two decades of his life, he used Norwegian skates on and off for other shorter mail
routes and for privately contracted express service.
* * *
Amazingly, Snowshoe Thompson carried little in the way of
bedding and clothing with him. His
weighty skis and pack--and moderate Sierra winter temperatures--might have had
something to do with it. Still, it's
remarkable that his only indulgence to comfort was a wide rimmed hat and
Mackinaw. He kept warm during the day by
the exercise of skiing. At nights, he built
a large fire, lay on a bed of pine boughs and used his mail sack for a pillow. He would stretch "himself upon this
fragrant couch," wrote Hubert Howe Bancroft, a west coast historian,
"and with his feet to the blaze and his face to the stars slept soundly
and safely."
Meals on the trail consisted of dried beef and sausage,
crackers and biscuits. He didn't know
about waxing. And when freshly fallen snow
would warm, it would stick to his skis in great clumps. When that happened, he'd stop and wait for
evening when the snow pack would glaze over and he could glide once again without
the encumbrance of wet, sticky snow.
To propel himself forward on the flat and to climb hills, he
used one long pole. Two poles came much
later. The pole, sometimes called a
"balancing pole," was also used to assist him on downhill runs. Apparently, Thompson was a master in its
use. "He flew down the mountainside,"
Dan DeQuille wrote, describing his graceful manner. "He did not ride astride his pole or
drag it to one side as was the practice of other snow-shoers, but held it
horizontally before him after the manner of tightrope walker. His appearance was graceful, swaying his
balance pole to one side and the other in the manner that soaring eagle dips
its wings."
* * *
Snowshoe Thompson--the man who could ski like a soaring
eagle--was also known for his generosity and for his willingness to come to the
aid of others. An incident early in his
second year of carrying mail over the Sierras helped establish that reputation. On December
23, 1856, Thompson stopped by a cabin along his route, and found
James Sisson lying on the floor, barely alive.
Several days prior, Sisson had been caught in a storm and had frozen his
feet. He eventually reached the cabin
where Thompson found him. Thompson made
the man as comfortable as possible and skied out the next day to Carson
Valley. He convinced five others to go back with him,
outfitting each of the rescuers in skis.
Once back at the cabin, they fashioned a sled and eventually got the
ailing man back to the valley by the 28th.
The story doesn't end there.
In order to save the man's life, Sisson's gangrenous legs would have to
be amputated, but the doctor treating him was unwilling to undertake the
operation without an anesthetic. Thompson,
who must have been thoroughly knackered after the rescue, volunteered to make
another trip. He again put on his skis
and made the 90 mile trek to Placerville. Then traveled 50 more miles to Sacramento.
There he obtained the anesthetic, turned
back around and did it all over again, retracing his path back to Carson
Valley. Sisson, reportedly, recovered and eventually
moved back to the east.
"Most remarkable man I ever knew, that Snowshoe
Thompson," said Postmaster S. A. Kinsey.
"He must be made of iron.
Besides, he never thinks of himself, but he'd give his last breath for
anyone else - even a total stranger."
He might have been a bit too generous. Despite the incredible physical effort he put
into providing reliable mail service, he was never ever fully compensated for
his work. With the support of friends,
he petitioned the Nevada
legislature and the U.S. Congress, but, in the end, he never received the remuneration
which he was owed. There were other life
disappointments, of course. His son, and
only child, died when the boy was only 11.
It must have been a terrible blow to the strong Norwegian.
Life went on. De
Quille describes Thompson at the age of 49 appearing in the prime of his
life. "His eyes was bright as that
of a hawk, his cheeks were ruddy, his frame muscular. His face had the look of repose, and he had
that calmness of manner, which are the result of perfect self
reliance." He was still skiing, De
Quille wrote. He would load a quarter
beef on his back and ski up a steep canyon to supply miners working at the
Pittsburg Mine, 20 miles south of Thompson's ranch.
It seemed that even in middle age, the robust Snowshoe Thompson
had many more years of skiing the mountains, but it was not to be. Shortly after the De Quille interview Thompson
suddenly fell ill with a liver ailment. It
was spring time, and the barley on his ranch needed to be planted. Thompson struggled out to his field. Bending over to sow the seeds was too painful,
so he mounted a horse and spread the seed from bucket held out in front of
him. Afterwards, unable to raise his 6
foot frame, the ever moving Norwegian was confined to his bed. Two days later he died.
He was buried beside his son in Genoa,
in Carson Valley
for whose residents he had first carried the mail by snowshoes over the
Sierras. Some time after his death, his
wife had a tombstone placed over his grave.
Carved on top of the tombstone are two crossed skis.
"To ordinary men there is something terrible in the
wild winter storms that often sweep through the Sierras," wrote De Quille.
But not to Snowshoe Thompson. The mountains were his sanctuary, and storms
were just another part of its raw beauty.
On his skis, he could freely move across the snow covered landscape. The feeling of freedom must have been never
more real to Thompson than when gliding downhill, holding his balance pole out
in front of him, dipping it one direction and then the other, his wide-brimmed
hat flapping in the wind and the Sierras spread out in front of him. At times like that, he must have felt like a soaring
eagle.
END
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Snowshoe Thompson.
Photo Courtesy of the
El Dorado Country Museum (Placerville, California)
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